DIY Fiberglass Pool Shells: A Complete Homeowner’s Guide

Dreaming of stepping out your back door and into a sparkling inground pool that you installed yourself? With a fiberglass pool shell, that dream is more achievable than you might think. Fiberglass pools are durable, low-maintenance, and faster to install than concrete or vinyl—making them a great match for motivated DIY homeowners.

This complete guide will walk you through every stage of the process, using a real-world installation workflow as a reference—from initial planning and site assessment all the way to excavation, shell placement, plumbing, backfilling, finishing touches, and long-term maintenance.

By the end, you’ll understand not just what to do, but why each step matters, and how to avoid the most common pitfalls that can cost you time and money.


Table of Contents

  1. Why Choose a DIY Fiberglass Pool?
  2. How Fiberglass Pool Shells Work
  3. Planning & Preparation: Setting Yourself Up for Success
  4. Site Preparation: Clearing, Leveling, and Marking
  5. Excavation: Digging the Pool with Precision
  6. Building the Base: Creating a Solid Foundation
  7. Installing the Pool Shell: Setting Your Oasis
  8. Plumbing & Equipment: Bringing Your Pool to Life
  9. Backfilling the Shell: Locking in Stability
  10. Finishing Touches: Decks, Coping, Lighting & Landscaping
  11. Maintenance & Care: Keeping Your Pool in Top Shape
  12. Cost & Budgeting Considerations
  13. Common DIY Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
  14. DIY vs Contractor: Hybrid Approaches
  15. Sample Timeline for a DIY Install
  16. Quick Checklists & Final Thoughts

1. Why Choose a DIY Fiberglass Pool?

Fiberglass pools are especially popular for DIY projects because the hardest construction work is already done at the factory. The shell arrives as a one-piece unit with smooth gelcoat surfaces, built-in steps, benches, and often tanning ledges. Your job is to:

  • Prepare the site
  • Dig the hole
  • Create a level base
  • Place the shell
  • Backfill and plumb the pool
  • Add finishing touches like decks and landscaping

Compared with a traditional concrete pool, which requires forming, rebar, and long cure times, fiberglass pool installation is significantly faster. Many homeowners can complete the core installation over a long weekend if they’ve planned carefully and have all the necessary equipment ready.

On top of that, DIY installation can save tens of thousands of dollars in labor costs. That financial breathing room often means you can afford a larger pool, nicer decking, or more premium features like lighting, heating, or an automatic safety cover.


2. How Fiberglass Pool Shells Work

A fiberglass pool shell is a pre-formed, factory-molded structure made from layers of fiberglass and resin with a gelcoat surface. This design offers several key advantages:

  • Structural Flexibility: It can flex slightly with soil movement, reducing the risk of cracking.
  • Smooth Surface: No rough plaster—great for kids’ feet and easier on swimsuits.
  • Low Chemical Demand: The non-porous surface helps prevent algae from embedding.
  • Built-in Features: Steps, benches, sun ledges, and light niches are molded in.

In your reference material, the process centers around installing one of these pre-engineered shells into a carefully excavated and prepared hole, using stone backfill and a well-compacted base to support it over the long term.

Because the shell arrives ready to install, you spend less time building and more time placing, plumbing, and protecting your investment.


3. Planning & Preparation: Setting Yourself Up for Success

Proper planning is what separates a smooth, satisfying DIY install from a chaotic, stressful one. Before any digging begins, take time to cover these essentials.

3.1 Assess Your Backyard

Start by evaluating:

  • Space and Layout: Make sure the pool shell you’ve chosen fits comfortably, with room for walking paths, decking, and equipment access.
  • Sun Exposure: South and west-facing areas get more sun, which can help naturally warm the water.
  • Access for Machinery: Your yard must accommodate a 16 metric ton excavator with a 28′ reach and a rubber track loader with a 68″ bucket, as noted in your reference installation.
  • Slope and Soil: Know whether you’re dealing with clay, sand, or loam, and note any significant grade changes.

3.2 Check Zoning Laws & Permits

Most localities require:

  • Building permits for inground pools
  • Electrical permits for pumps, lights, and heaters
  • Minimum setback distances from property lines
  • Approved safety barriers or fences

Skipping this step can result in fines, forced removal, or difficulty selling your home later.

3.3 Gather Tools, Equipment & Materials

Based on your reference file, a typical DIY fiberglass install uses:

  • 16 metric ton excavator (with sufficient reach)
  • Rubber track loader
  • Chains, shackles, and a spreader bar for lifting the shell
  • AC-style equipment pads for pump, filter, and heater
  • Gravel/stone for base and backfill
  • PVC plumbing (typically 2″ schedule 40)
  • Propane torch (for gently heating pipe bends)
  • Shovels, grade laser, string line, stakes, and levels
  • Dump trucks or dumpsters for soil and stump removal

3.4 Study the Dig Sheet

Your manufacturer will provide a dig sheet, which is your blueprint for the excavation. It includes:

  • Exact length, width, and depth
  • Slope and profile of the floor
  • Radius corners and transitions
  • Hash marks and depth references for the operator

In your reference text, the crew repeatedly checks and updates the excavation using the dig sheet and painted hash marks, ensuring the hole matches the shell’s shape and depth precisely.

3.5 Plan for Soil Disposal & Schedule

Excavation produces a substantial amount of soil. Plan ahead:

  • Where will dump trucks load?
  • Where can they turn around?
  • Are there overhead obstructions (trees, wires)?

Also, schedule your pool delivery to align with excavation and base preparation, so the shell can be set shortly after the base is ready.


4. Site Preparation: Clearing, Leveling, and Marking

Now it’s time to transform your yard from “blank canvas” into a defined job site.

4.1 Clear the Area

Remove:

  • Trees and shrubs
  • Rocks and surface debris
  • Stumps (cut to 3–4 feet high for easier machine removal, as suggested in your reference)

Stumps and large debris can be loaded into a dump truck or dumpster for disposal.

4.2 Rough Grade & Establish Finished Height

Use a laser level to determine the finished height of the pool:

  • Consider the height of future decking and coping
  • Factor in any automatic cover systems
  • Make sure the pool fits harmoniously into existing landscaping

Your reference material emphasizes checking grade early so you know exactly where the shell’s waterline will end up relative to the rest of the yard.

4.3 Set Corner Stakes & Square the Layout

  1. Install stakes at the four corners of the planned pool.
  2. Run string lines between them to form a rectangle.
  3. Measure diagonals to ensure the layout is perfectly square.
  4. Adjust stakes as needed until the layout matches the dig sheet dimensions.

4.4 Mark the Excavation

Using spray paint:

  • Trace the outer perimeter of the dig
  • Mark hash lines corresponding to dig sheet elevations
  • Highlight centerlines or key features if needed

These visual guides make it much easier for the excavator operator to dig quickly and accurately.


5. Excavation: Digging the Pool with Precision

Excavation is where the project becomes very real. It’s also one of the most demanding stages physically and logistically.

5.1 Start Digging According to the Dig Sheet

Your reference file shows a methodical process:

  • Excavated dirt is loaded directly into dump trucks for efficient removal.
  • Hash marks are constantly checked and updated as depth increases.
  • The operator carefully follows the dig sheet’s slopes and depth markers.

Avoid rushing. A few extra minutes of measuring can prevent hours of rework later.

5.2 Shape the Hole Correctly

The excavation should:

  • Be slightly larger than the pool shell to allow for base material and backfill
  • Match the floor profile (shallow end, slopes, deep end, etc.)
  • Maintain stable, safe side walls

As you get closer to final depth, switch to more careful digging and frequent laser checks.

5.3 Safety During Excavation

  • Always locate underground utilities before digging.
  • Keep people and pets away from the equipment and excavation edge.
  • Be mindful of soil conditions—wet or sandy soils can collapse and need shoring or stepped cuts.

5.4 Final Prep After Digging

When excavation is complete, your reference installation shows:

  • A neatly shaped hole
  • Stone being delivered for the base
  • The operator making final smoothing passes

Before proceeding, verify:

  • Depths at multiple points
  • Symmetry and alignment with string lines
  • Enough clearance around the shell perimeter

6. Building the Base: Creating a Solid Foundation

The base is what supports the shell’s weight and keeps it level for decades.

6.1 Choose the Right Base Material

Your reference guide clearly recommends stone, not sand, for both base and backfill.

Benefits of stone:

  • Excellent drainage
  • High compaction
  • Reduced risk of shifting or settling

6.2 Install a Hydrostatic Wellpoint

The file describes using 8″ non-perforated pipe with perforations at the bottom to act as a wellpoint.

This vertical pipe:

  • Allows you to pump out groundwater
  • Relieves hydrostatic pressure under the pool
  • Helps prevent the shell from “floating” in high water table conditions

6.3 Spread and Screed the Base

  1. Add stone evenly across the bottom of the excavation.
  2. Use long 2×4s and a level to screed the stone flat.
  3. Check the entire footprint, not just a few points.

Your reference images show installers carefully screeding the base using straight boards and levels to achieve an even, perfectly level surface.

This is not a step to rush—any imperfections here will show up in the pool’s final waterline.


7. Installing the Pool Shell: Setting Your Oasis

Once the base is ready, it’s time for the most exciting part—setting the shell.

7.1 Rigging the Shell

The file describes a safe rigging setup using:

  • Chains attached to the excavator bucket
  • Tape over the chains and spreader bar for extra security
  • Shackles connected to embedded lifting points in the shell

This setup keeps the shell balanced while it’s lifted and transported.

7.2 Transporting and Positioning

Because many backyards are tight, the shell is often transported vertically. Your reference images show:

  • The excavator lifting the shell to vertical
  • Carefully moving it across the yard
  • Positioning it over the excavation

The operator then slowly lowers the shell into the hole while helpers visually guide alignment.

7.3 Seating the Shell on the Base

As the shell is set:

  • Check the floor for voids (the shell must sit fully on the stone, not hang on straps).
  • Verify level front-to-back and side-to-side using long levels or lasers.
  • Adjust by adding or redistributing base material if needed.

Your reference file notes that the level variation should not exceed 1″ over 40′, ensuring a visually level waterline when the pool is filled.

Once you’re satisfied, you can release the shell from the lifting equipment.


8. Plumbing & Equipment: Bringing Your Pool to Life

With the shell in place, it’s time to install the circulation system that keeps your pool clean and swimmable.

8.1 Equipment Pad Setup

Your file shows equipment pads being leveled with gravel and then fitted with:

  • Pump
  • Filter
  • Heater
  • Sanitizer system (like a salt cell or chlorinator)

Locate the pad:

  • Close to the pool (ideally within 25 feet)
  • Out of the main sightlines if possible
  • With proper drainage and access for servicing

8.2 Skimmer Installation

From your reference process:

  1. The skimmer opening is pre-marked on the shell.
  2. The installer grinds and cuts the opening to match the skimmer body.
  3. The back side of the shell is ground for proper fit.
  4. Caulk is applied to the skimmer face.
  5. The faceplate is screwed into place, compressing the gasket and creating a watertight seal.
  6. Two bottom ports are present: one typically runs to the pump, the other is capped.

8.3 Return Lines and Fittings

Most shells arrive with return fittings already installed. You’ll:

  • Plumb returns from the equipment pad back to these fittings
  • Use 2″ schedule 40 rigid PVC
  • Install valves as needed for flow control

In the reference workflow, a propane torch is used to gently heat PVC and form sweeps instead of sharp 90° elbows when practical, helping improve water flow and reduce potential leak points.

8.4 Pool Light Plumbing

The file mentions:

  • Light fixtures installed at the factory
  • On-site installation of the coupling and 90° fitting at the back of the light niche

Conduit is run back to the junction box or transformer following electrical code.

8.5 Pressure Testing

Before backfilling fully, it’s wise to:

  • Pressure test your plumbing
  • Inspect all joints for leaks
  • Confirm pump and filter connections are tight

Catching issues now is far easier than after the deck is poured.


9. Backfilling the Shell: Locking in Stability

Backfilling supports the pool shell walls and integrates the pool into the surrounding soil.

9.1 Use the Right Backfill Material

As emphasized in your reference: use stone, not sand, for backfill.

Stone:

  • Compacts well
  • Allows water to drain away from the shell
  • Reduces hydrostatic pressure

9.2 Coordinate Water Level and Backfill

To avoid deforming the shell:

  • Fill the pool with water as you backfill
  • Keep the water level roughly even with the height of the stone around the outside
  • Work in layers, compacting as you go

Your reference shows skid steers dumping stone around the pool and workers spreading and tamping it into place by hand where needed.

9.3 Use T-Boards and Rebar Support

To keep the walls true and square, your file demonstrates:

  • T-boards spanning the width of the pool
  • Rebar installed every 3 feet to secure the shell

These supports remain until the surrounding concrete or decking is installed and cured.


10. Finishing Touches: Decks, Coping, Lighting & Landscaping

The structure is done. Now it’s about creating a space you’ll never want to leave.

10.1 Decking Options

You can choose from:

  • Pavers: Flexible, easy to repair, and attractive.
  • Stamped Concrete: Many patterns and colors, typically lower initial cost.
  • Natural Stone (e.g., travertine): Premium, timeless look with excellent durability.
  • Composite Decking: Warm, modern feel with low maintenance.

Match the style of your home and consider heat absorption, slip resistance, and maintenance.

10.2 Coping

Coping forms the border around the pool edge and protects both the shell and the deck interface. Popular choices include:

  • Precast concrete coping
  • Travertine or natural stone coping
  • Cantilevered concrete (using special forms)

Good coping ties the entire design together visually and functionally.

10.3 Lighting

Fiberglass shells frequently include integrated light niches. Adding LED pool lights:

  • Extends usable hours into the evening
  • Improves safety
  • Creates a resort-like ambiance

You can also add landscape lighting around plants, steps, or pathways for a cohesive nighttime effect.

10.4 Landscaping

Thoughtful landscaping completes the retreat:

  • Use low-litter plants that won’t constantly drop leaves into the pool.
  • Consider privacy hedges or fences.
  • Add seating areas, fire pits, or outdoor kitchens nearby.

Just be sure to keep large root systems and invasive plants away from the pool structure.


11. Maintenance & Care: Keeping Your Pool in Top Shape

Fiberglass pools are famously low maintenance, but “low” doesn’t mean “none.”

11.1 Routine Cleaning

Thanks to the smooth gelcoat, algae has a hard time sticking. Still, plan to:

  • Skim leaves and debris
  • Brush steps, ledges, and walls occasionally
  • Vacuum the floor (or use a robotic cleaner)
  • Empty skimmer and pump baskets

11.2 Water Chemistry

Maintain balanced water to protect swimmers and equipment:

  • pH: 7.2–7.6
  • Free chlorine: 1–3 ppm
  • Total alkalinity: 80–120 ppm
  • Calcium hardness: per manufacturer’s recommendation

Check at least weekly during the swim season.

11.3 Seasonal Care

Your reference material mentions winter safety covers as a key part of off-season protection.

In cold climates:

  • Lower water level per manufacturer guidelines
  • Blow out and plug lines
  • Add winterizing chemicals
  • Install a solid or mesh winter safety cover

In warm climates, your “off-season” may be very short, but covering still reduces debris and chemical use.

11.4 Minor Repairs

Fiberglass is tough, but occasional chips, scrapes, or surface dulling can occur over many years. Fortunately:

  • Gelcoat repair kits can address small damage
  • Polishing can restore shine in faded areas

Compared to re-plastering concrete or replacing a vinyl liner, fiberglass repair is relatively simple and affordable.


12. Cost & Budgeting Considerations

Going DIY doesn’t mean the project is cheap—but it often costs far less than a full turn-key install.

Typical cost categories:

  • Fiberglass pool shell
  • Delivery and crane/excavator time
  • Excavation and soil removal
  • Stone for base and backfill
  • Plumbing and equipment (pump, filter, heater, sanitizer, lights)
  • Electrical work (often hired out to a licensed electrician)
  • Decking and coping
  • Landscaping

Your reference workflow shows how much of the installation is manageable by a skilled DIYer with the right tools, and where heavy lifting and precision matter most.

Plan a realistic budget, then add a contingency of 10–15% for surprises such as extra stone, added drainage, or minor design changes.


13. Common DIY Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

Even confident DIYers can get tripped up by a few recurring issues:

  1. Rushing Excavation
    • Solution: Measure frequently, follow the dig sheet, and take your time.
  2. Using the Wrong Backfill (like Sand)
    • Solution: Use stone as recommended in your reference installation.
  3. Inadequate Base Leveling
    • Solution: Screed carefully with long boards and a level; don’t accept “close enough.”
  4. Not Coordinating Water Fill with Backfill
    • Solution: Raise water and backfill levels together to avoid shell deformation.
  5. Skipping Plumbing Pressure Tests
    • Solution: Test all lines before backfilling fully or pouring any concrete.
  6. Ignoring Local Codes
    • Solution: Pull permits and follow safety and electrical codes from the start.

14. DIY vs Contractor: Hybrid Approaches

You don’t have to choose between all-DIY or full contractor install. Many homeowners pick a hybrid approach:

  • You handle planning, site prep, and maybe even excavation.
  • A professional sets the shell and performs critical plumbing and electrical work.
  • You complete the backfilling, decking, and landscaping.

Your reference install clearly shows some steps (like safe rigging and lifting the shell) that may be more comfortable with experienced operators, especially for first-timers.

Mixing DIY and professional help lets you control costs while still benefitting from expert oversight where it matters most.


15. Sample Timeline for a DIY Install

Here’s a typical flow for a well-planned DIY project:

  • Week 1–2: Planning, permits, pool shell selection, and scheduling equipment.
  • Day 1: Site clearing, rough grading, setting stakes, marking layout.
  • Day 2: Excavation and soil removal.
  • Day 3: Base installation and screeding.
  • Day 4: Shell delivery, rigging, and setting.
  • Day 5–6: Plumbing and initial backfilling.
  • Day 7–10: Finish backfilling, equipment hookup, and testing.
  • Following Weeks: Decking, coping, landscaping, and final touches.

Actual timing will vary based on weather, access, and your own schedule—but this gives a sense of what’s realistic.


16. Quick Checklists & Final Thoughts

Pre-Excavation Checklist

  • Permits obtained
  • Dig sheet understood
  • Equipment access confirmed
  • Dump sites arranged
  • Pool shell delivery date set
  • Tools and safety gear ready

Before Setting the Shell

  • Excavation matches dig sheet
  • Base stone installed and screeded
  • Wellpoint installed
  • Site clear for machinery and crew

Before Backfilling Fully

  • Shell level and aligned
  • Plumbing installed and pressure-tested
  • Equipment pad in place
  • T-boards and rebar support installed

Final Thoughts

By choosing a DIY fiberglass pool shell installation, you’re not just building a pool—you’re creating a custom backyard retreat and gaining a deep sense of accomplishment in the process. Your reference installation shows what a carefully planned and executed fiberglass pool project looks like in real life, and this guide has translated that into a step-by-step roadmap you can follow.

With thoughtful preparation, patience, and attention to detail, you’ll be rewarded with:

  • A beautiful inground fiberglass pool
  • Lower long-term maintenance
  • Significant cost savings
  • A backyard oasis you and your family will enjoy for many years

When you finally step into that clear blue water for the first time, you won’t just be enjoying a pool—you’ll be enjoying a project you brought to life with your own hands.